26/03/2013

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Coachman Tour of Yorkshire I

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Caravan magazine experiences the excellence of Yorkshire in a Coachman Pastiche 520/4

Like most holidays, this one begins with an early start. I’m up at five and waiting outside feature editor Ben’s apartment block at six, as he bumbles downstairs with five bags, a video camera, a duvet and two pillows. Once the VW CC’s loaded, we head north on the A1M, then east on the M62, reaching Coachman’s Hull HQ before 8am.

Inside the compound, we spot the Pastiche 520/4 caravan that Val C’s recommended. It takes a few minutes to hitch up, and, as we head out the gates, a perfectly-cloudless, midnight-blue sky grows brighter on the eastern horizon. Today the gods are smiling on us.

Back on the road, Pastiche in tow

The outfit looks pretty cool (though I say so myself). The low, curvy CC matches the Pastiche perfectly, with the caravan’s cool alloy wheels, tinted windows, swooping graphics and contemporary door design hinting at some of the state-of-the-art technology to be found inside. We immediately head north towards the town of Driffield and the rolling Yorkshire Wolds.

"The town is just coming to life as we stroll to the bay's northern end to see the harbour and funfair"

The CC tows beautifully. With its 170bhp engine, and adjustable suspension set to the stiffer ‘sport’ mode, it bosses the Pastiche with ease at all speeds, even on the steep incline up onto the hilltops. Our first stop is Scarborough, but on the way we pass the interestingly-named village of Wetwang, which Ben and I find most amusing. Juveniles. The town of Scarborough occupies two bays on the east coast and radiates a spirit of past glories, when it became Britain’s first seaside resort.

Scarborough's a sight!

It’s still just 9.15am, and the beach is filled with dog walkers as we amble along the sands. It’s a perfect English winter’s day, but the intense sun takes the edge off a chilly morning. The town is just coming to life as we stroll back to the bay’s northern end to see the harbour and funfair. Traditional amusement arcades and chippies line the seafront, and the tide-washed beach looks clean and appealing; the icy North Sea, rather less so.

From Scarborough we head up the coast to the town of Whitby. At least we try to. Relying on the VW’s sat-nav is probably not the best idea, but its poor choice of route results in an unexpected find. Minutes from Scarborough we find ourselves in a beautifully-tranquil wooded valley near the village of Hackness.

The scenery is so serene it seems we’ve left civilisation far behind, and I can only imagine the views being even more stunning in spring, summer and autumn. Walkers, cyclists and especially birdwatchers will love this area. After half-an-hour enjoying the country lanes, we get the map-book out, ignore the insistent sat-nav woman, and thread our way back to the A171 Whitby road.

Lost no longer

A further 30 minutes of driving and we spot the ruins of Whitby Abbey on the horizon, along with a sign for the car park. It turns out there are plenty of spaces and the ticket machines are both out of order. Result! We park the outfit and make our way towards the town along some higgledy-piggledy tracks to the left of the Abbey.

"We set off to explore Whitby and enjoy its hidden treasures and the surprise views down every tiny back-street"

This route is not ideal for pushchairs or wheelchairs, which should take the smooth path around the right-hand side of the Abbey. Both routes bring you out at St Mary’s Church overlooking the harbour. The views are wonderful and 199 stone steps lead down to the old-town below.

There’s a cobbled ramp next to the stairs, though it is so steep that only daredevils will attempt it with a wheelchair or pram. After perusing the shops on the picturesque Church St, we’re delayed by the harbour’s swingbridge as it opens to let a fishing boat pass. This reminds us we’re both peckish, and when in Whitby, there is only one acceptable option – fish and chips.

Where should we eat?

I ask the swingbridge operator for a chippie recommendation. Apparently, the Magpie Café (turn right over the bridge) has a national reputation for quality, but it’s undergoing a revamp. Next best is Trencher’s (turn left after crossing the bridge), but there’s a huge queue outside, so we cross back to the Abbey side and try out Hadley’s Fish Restaurant.

It’s a great choice, if a bit pricey (£10 for cod and chips, a cuppa and a slice of bread and butter), but the fish is supremely fresh and the batter is light, tempura-style. Replenished, we set off to explore Whitby and enjoy its hidden treasures and the surprise views down every tiny back-street.

Next, it’s back to the car park and, with sunset just an hour away, we hit the road again and head on the A169 across the Moors to Pickering. The North York Moors exude a bleak and lonely beauty. Without a caravan in tow the roads are a joy to drive, and the well-behaved Pastiche barely alters the excellent experience.

We drop down into Goathland briefly to see the North York Moors Railway, which means we have to descend Cow Wath Bank, a 25% (1-in-4) slope. Reassuringly, the well-balanced outfit manages both the descent and ascent with ease and we’re back on route.

Beautiful sunset

After passing RAF Fylingdales radar station we pull over for a break at the Hole of Horcum to watch the sunset. There’s plenty of parking at this vast natural ampitheatre where, legend has it, a giant scooped up a handful of earth and threw it aside, creating Blakey Topping – a nearby hill – in the process!

"The sunset is both spectacular and speedy, as the perfect sky grows dark once again"

The sunset is both spectacular and speedy. As the perfect sky grows dark once again, we continue on to the market town of Pickering, where we head west on the A170. After a few miles, we turn north again, back up towards the Moors to our first overnight stop, the wonderful Spiers House, Camping in the Forest site.

The friendly staff make us welcome on a premium hardstanding pitch with hook-up, tap and drain. It takes us just 15 minutes to unhitch and level the van and then, as the outside temperature plummets towards zero, we fire up the Truma heating and stick our faithful Wacky-Practicals collapsible kettle on for a nice cuppa. The perfect end to the perfect Yorkshire day, in our perfectly-built Yorkshire caravan!

Yorkshire campsites

Arosa Caravan Park
Ratten Row
Seamer
Scarborough
YO12 4QB
T 01723 862166
W arosacamping.co.uk

York House Caravan Park
Hawkser
Whitby
YO22 4LW
T 01947 880354
W yorkhousecaravanpark.co.uk

Spiers House Campsite (pictured right)
Cropton
Nr Pickering
YO18 8ES
T 01751 417591
W campingintheforest.co.uk

Golden Square Caravan Park
Oswaldkirk
Nr. Helmsley
York
YO62 5YQ
T 01439 788269
W goldensquarecaravanpark.com

York Meadows Caravan Park
Sheriff Hutton
York
YO60 6QP
T 01347 878508
W yorkmeadowscaravanpark.com

• Get the copy of Caravan that kicked off the Coachman Tour by ordering your March 2013 back issue here! Or you can order a digital copy.

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26/03/2013 Share this story

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