Which Motorhome? Choosing The Perfect Motorhome For You

A campervan (or camper) is essentially a van that has been converted from a commercial vehicle for a leisure role, with the addition of seats, windows, insulation, furniture, etc.

It may have a pop-top or a permanent high roof to give standing room – see the different types of campervan below.

There’s a huge variety of campervans built by the major British and European motorhome brands and even Citroën, Ford, Mercedes and VW offer their own campervan models (the Holidays, Nugget, Marco Polo and California range, respectively).

However, a large part of this fast-growing market is also made up of smaller companies who usually sell direct from their factory.

A motorhome – in the past usually called a motorcaravan – is often also described as a coachbuilt. This refers to the fact that, traditionally, coachbuilders added a caravan-style living area onto the back of a cab of a light commercial vehicle.

Nowadays most motorhomes come from large specialist manufacturers that are often part of big groups (Erwin Hymer, Knaus-Tabbert, Pilote, Rapido, Trigano, etc), these firms often having a history of caravan construction behind them, as do big British brands, such as Bailey and Swift.

There are a number of advantages of motorhomes over campervans. For a start, the squarer body sides allow for better use of the interior space, while the sandwich construction of the bodywork makes it easier to provide full insulation for year-round use.

It’s also more cost-effective to build the habitation area of a motorhome onto the blank canvas of a chassis than it is to convert a panel van.

But, conversely, there are also advantages of campervans over motorhomes, as they are usually more compact (especially in width) and easier to drive with better visibility. Their all-steel bodywork is sturdier, too, without the flex that can afflict coachbuilts, causing rattles and creaks.

Campervans look more automotive, with a wide range of exterior colours, too. Some will also prefer the feel of being closer to camping, with large sliding doors bringing the outside in.

For the different types of motorhome – low-profile, overcab and A-class – see below.

Campervans retain the bodywork of a van and have a pop-top to give standing room, or come in taller high-top form, usually on larger models.
Motorhomes come in three key types – low-profiles dominate the market but you'll also find overcab coachbuilts and, at the top of the market, A-classes.

If your campervan is to take the place of a car, size will be a major consideration. Will the campervan fit into parking bays or under height restrictions? A campervan can make a very versatile car, arguably much more useful than an SUV, but campers the size of a VW T6.1 or Ford Transit Custom are most likely to fit the bill.

Even if you’ll be driving your camper less frequently, you need to be comfortable and confident at the wheel. If it seems cumbersome or underpowered, this will spoil your enjoyment every time you go out.

That’s why it’s so important to take a test drive, to consider options like engine upgrades and automatic options, as well as hiring first to get the feel of driving a leisure vehicle. Some seating positions don’t suit shorter drivers, while others have seat adjustment that is too limited for taller folk.

Once you’ve adjusted the seat and steering wheel, look at visibility all around, and check whether a reversing camera is included.

Another consideration is the size and accessibility of your driveway – you might be able to keep your motorhome elsewhere (such as at a secure storage site), but then it’ll be a lot less convenient for spur-of-the-moment getaways. Most insurers are reluctant to cover motorhomes that are parked on the street.

If you passed your car driving test on or after 1 January, 1997, you are limited to driving a vehicle of no more than 3,500kg maximum weight. This will include most campervans (except the largest models) and many motorhomes, even a few A-classes, although you will have to be sure that you have enough payload in any 3,500kg motorhome. 

If you passed your test before 1 January, 1997, you can drive a vehicle up to 7,500kg (enough for 99% of motorhomes, but not the largest American RVs). On reaching 70, however, you will only be licensed to drive vehicles up to 3,500kg, unless you apply to the DVLA (and take regular medical checks). You can then retain your 7.5-tonne entitlement in three-year chunks.

Because more young people are driving motorhomes, and older folk are losing their 7,500kg entitlement, motorhome manufacturers are increasingly striving to offer vehicles with a 3,500kg maximum weight. However, coachbuilts of over 7m in length and even some large van conversions offer very limited payloads within this limit (sometimes under 300kg).

Add a few options and accessories and you’ll quickly exceed the payload – and be driving illegally.

For most motorhomes there can be a solution – as long as you have a (C1) licence to drive vehicles of over 3,500kg. Some models can be upgraded to heavier chassis at the time of ordering new to give you more payload, while others can be subsequently uprated. If you think you may need to go down this route, talk to a specialist.

Before buying a heavier motorhome, though, you may want to consider that, in Europe, vehicles with a GVW of more than 3,500kg are often subject to reduced speed limits and increased toll charges. They might also be barred from some roads in towns.

In the UK, car speed limits apply unless your vehicle’s unladen weight exceeds 3,050kg.

On every trip in your motorhome, you’re likely to spend more time driving and sleeping than anything else, so these should be your top priorities. A mattress topper might improve sleeping comfort but, if the bed is too small or access (via a ladder or by climbing over your partner) is too difficult, then you won’t get enough kip – and absolutely nothing is more guaranteed to ruin your holiday than insufficient shut-eye.

In a similar vein, think about the space to get undressed and access to the loo, as well as whether you can sit up in bed.

You might be dreaming of hot summer days, sitting outside your campervan around the barbecue, but the reality is that the weather won’t always be wonderful.

If you’re stuck inside the motorhome, what will you do? Will there be enough space, and will you be comfy? Often, the motorhome’s cab seats are the best place to relax, once you’ve swivelled them, so do they rotate easily and can you put your feet up once they’re facing the living area?

If you’ll be motorhoming with your family, will there be room for everyone, perhaps with separate TV and quiet zones, or different areas for kids and parents? Can everyone see the TV, or easily reach the table at mealtimes? Do you prefer a table that’s always in situ or a removable one; in which case, how easy/heavy is it to extract and erect?

Where are you planning to stay in your motorhome? There are some superb campsites with fabulous facilities (swimming pools, etc) – such as the Premier Parks network – but the cost of using top-quality campsites can mount up on a longer trip.

If you have a proper washroom in your motorhome, you may prefer to use small, basic campsites (such as the Certificated Sites – CSs – run by the Camping and Caravanning Club or the CLs operated by the Caravan and Motorhome Club), or aires on the Continent, or perhaps you’ll just want to park up off-grid anywhere that you’re legally allowed to.

In that case, you’ll need to be more self-sufficient, so a large fresh water tank (minimum 100 litres), a second leisure battery (or upgraded to lithium) and a solar panel become must-have features.

You might even want a spare cassette for the toilet if going off-grid for more than the odd couple of nights and, if you really want to explore right off the beaten track, then suitable off-road tyres or even four-wheel drive may be on your shopping list. Increasingly, chemical-free toilets (composting loos or bag system toilets) are becoming the choice for off-grid touring.