Motorhome travel: Walking in Cumbria

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Nestled in the heart of the Lake District is Borrowdale: a mysterious, Tolkeinesque land that’s perfect for off-the-beaten-track campervan and motorhome adventures.

The legend that is Alfred Wainwright (MBE) said that ‘‘The Lake District is the loveliest part of England, and Borrowdale is the fairest of its valleys,’’ and I couldn’t agree more with this sentiment. While there are many lovely parts of England to explore, and having a campervan or motorhome gives you the freedom to see the fairest of places, in my books, nothing really beats Cumbria.

It offers everything from unspoilt sandy beaches to huge mountains (by English standards!), and Borrowdale showcases the Lake District's finest: the wild and windswept mountain peaks that tower above are reminiscent of Mordor, while the emerald-green valley below, dotted with Herdwick sheep and traditional stone cottages, make it as pretty and as inviting as The Shire.

A step back in time, Borrowdale is thought to have been named by Scandinavian settlers back in the 10th century who named it after the hill fort on Castle Crag – Borg meaning fort and dair meaning dale – although evidence of human activity in the area dates back to around 6,000 years ago. Many of the footpaths we tread today, that lead over the fells from one valley to another, originated as medieval trade routes used to transport local produce such as wool, iron and slate. Borrowdale has a rich mining history and, in fact, even achieved global superstardom when graphite was first discovered here. Hence the Pencil Museum in Keswick.

Also located in Borrowdale is Brandelhow Wood, which is situated on the shores of Derwentwater near the village of Grange, and was the first site in the Lake District to be acquired by the National Trust in 1902. It’s a popular place to explore today because the hop-on, hop-off passenger ferry that operates around the lake from Keswick stops here.

Hikes around Cumbria

If you’re familiar with Alfred Wainwright’s 'A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells', then you’ll also know that both the highest and the lowest of the 214 Wainwright fells can be found in Borrowdale, too. Scafell Pike is of course the highest one, and the route from Borrowdale via the Corridor Route is magnificent – unless you have a faint heart – but the lowest one (Castle Crag) at just 290m is certainly no less magnificent.

Castle Crag protrudes from a narrow gorge known as the ‘Jaws of Borrowdale’ and can be seen from Keswick. It's believed to be an ancient hill fort and one can certainly see why from the top as, on a clear day, the views to the north and south are as far-reaching as Skiddaw and the Scafells. Castle Crag was also a slate quarry until the 1960s and so the abandoned pits and spoil heaps can still be seen today.

It makes for both an interesting and eerie walk, as large fragments of slate stand like nameless tombstones in a forgotten graveyard and, although they are regularly cleared away, the stones mysteriously return…

Where to stay

When it comes to where to pitch your campervan, there are a number of picturesque little campsites tucked away in the heart of Borrowdale to choose from. They’re just perfect for campervan holidays because, once you’re parked up, you won’t have to move again because everything – such as the footpaths, pubs and bus stops – is within easy walking or cycling distance.

As these types of sites tend to be little farmers’ fields with spit and sawdust facilities, rather than large, well-appointed campsites, they’re fairly quiet and therefore great for relaxing – you get to enjoy the best view in the house, away from the hustle and bustle, and be at one with nature. And anyone with a large caravan or motorhome will just have to stay down the road nearer to civilisation, such as Keswick, where such decadence is catered for!

When the rain comes, Seathwaite in Borrowdale has been cited as the wettest place in England and whether this is true or not is of little consequence because the clue is indeed in the name: the Lake District… Yes, it rains a lot. And while the odd rainy day can come as a welcome relief, being the perfect excuse to take a break from hiking and put your feet up, it can also start to feel a little claustrophobic after a while. After all, campervans don’t offer a lot of space, compared to a house, for example.

Pubs are a great place to hide out and dry your gear off, but it’s nice to have other options to explore in case the rain doesn’t let up or you fancy a change from hiking. And, with a couple of regular bus routes operating through Borrowdale, you can take a day trip out to lots of interesting places.

Rosthwaite circular route summary

A circular route starting in Rosthwaite that involves an easy hike up Castle Crag and down to Brandelhow, where you take a lake cruise to Keswick for a pub lunch before catching the open-top double-decker bus back to where you started!

Map: OS Landranger 90 Rosthwaite – Castle Crag (on foot = 1½ km)

Start at the Scafell Hotel. Turn right then take the second lane on the left. Follow it past the Flock-Inn tearoom where it becomes a track. Follow this to the River Derwent and cross at the footbridge.
Turn right and then left almost immediately to head steeply uphill through a field. Keep the stream (Tongue Gill) on your left and follow the path heading slightly right for 1/2km until you come to a distinct T-junction with a bridleway.
Turn right and head downhill for 1/4km to the foot of Castle Crag on the right. Follow the steep path to the top. Castle Crag – Brandelhow, via Grange (on foot = 5km)
Come down Castle Crag the same way to rejoin the bridleway. Turn right and continue northwards for 1km to meet the river, again.
Bear left and follow the track through Inside Out Camping. The track becomes a lane that leads to Grange. Once you meet the road in the village, stop for refreshments at Grange Café, which is on the corner.
From the café, turn left and follow the road for 1km. Go over a stream (Ellers Beck) and take a track on the right to join the Cumbria Way footpath. Follow this for 2km, heading down and around Derwentwater, to reach Low Brandelhow jetty, where you catch the ferry. Brandelhow – Keswick (by boat = 20 minutes).
The Keswick Launch Co operates an 8-stop boat service around Derwentwater, and the trip from Low Brandelhow to Keswick takes about 20 minutes. Visit their website to download a timetable before you go.
There are many things to do in Keswick but I’d recommend heading to the Bank Tavern (banktavern.co.uk), on Main Street, for Cumberland sausage & mash and a pint of local real ale! Keswick – Rosthwaite (by open-top double-decker bus = 25 minutes).
To get to the bus station, which is a 5-min walk from the Bank Tavern, turn left and walk down to the roundabout. Turn left and then cross the road towards Booths where the bus station is located.
From stand 3, catch the number 78 open-top double-decker bus back to where you started in Rosthwaite. The journey takes around 25 minutes and it’s well worth sitting upstairs! Alight at the Scafell Hotel and stay for a hearty meal and more local real ale in the walkers’ bar…