What I never really considered was just how busy city life in Italy is. After driving in and around Parma, I have to confess, I felt slightly overwhelmed. The countryside surrounding the city was the Italy I loved, but in the cities, it was hectic, beautiful but hectic. I craved the farms, I craved the vineyards and countryside.
As I made my way toward Bologna, I knew it was even bigger than Parma. I actually didn’t fancy another city. I wanted to slow down and immerse myself in that Italian vision I’d conjured up. Everything about Italy is slow, yet I’d gone from a busy London 100mph pace to a land that needed time to savour. Apart from the roads, of course, that is clearly where Italians let it all out! I decided to follow my heart and embrace the slower pace, enjoying the beautiful autumnal colours of the countryside. All those Italian romantic movies I’ve watched painted this idyllic scene, and that was exactly what I was looking to recreate.

I ventured deep into the countryside surrounding Modena and Bologna and found myself lost amongst vineyards and farmyards. The hills were a rolling sea of red, orange, and green. Being in the prime location of Emilia-Romagna’s legendary balsamic territory, it was a no-brainer to go and learn the family art of being a Mastro Acetaio, a master vinegar maker.
In the gorgeous village of Vignola, I found a crazy busy Osteria. It was Saturday, and the place was loud, frantic, and full of local joy. I ate Burrata on a bed of melt-in-the-mouth prosciutto and deep-fried porcini mushrooms (October is prime time for them!), but the showstopper was the Borlenghis. These are thin batters cooked in pork fat with crumbled sausage. They were so incredibly moorish I finally understood why every single table was full of locals chatting and indulging on them.
I then headed to La Cà dal Nôn (“The House of the Grandfather”) to meet Mariangela. I was lucky to be given the full tour of the process and hear the stories of the family. She explained how every time a daughter is born into the family, a new line of vinegar is started. Imagine that, lines of barrels aging for a minimum of 12 years, with the Extravecchio reaching 25 years. I sat with her sampling the Balsamic de Modena DOP; the younger ones were sweet and fruity, the older ones sour and punchy. She even introduced me to Saba, made from the grape must, an "ancient sweetener" used by the Romans long before sugar ever hit these shores.

Michele, Mariangela’s brother, invited me to park my van right in the vineyards. Wow. I was immersed in the Italy of my dreams! Hazy rolling hills, a sea of vineyards, and a quaint little church nestled in the haze that chimed on the hour. At sunset, the burnt orange sky filled me with a glowing euphoria. If I were frozen on the spot forever, this would be the place.
Typical of me, though, I hadn’t planned ahead for food. Supermarket? I couldn't tell you the last time I’d seen one! I jumped on my electric Grön e-bike and headed along the spine of the jaw-droppingly beautiful hills. This bike is carbon and light as a feather, which was a blessing when I hit the mesmerizing steps of Savignano Alto. This medieval village looks exactly like a postcard.
I passed through the Porta Primaria, the historic stone gate, and guided my wheels along the cobbled pathways. It felt like the top of Italy. Looking across the autumnal reds and oranges toward Bologna in the distance, I knew I was right to skip the city and stay immersed in this quiet atmosphere. It felt like a bit of a ghost town out of season, which only helped soak the moments into my memory.

If you find yourself in this foodie heaven, don't leave without trying these regional classics:
● Borlenghis: A thin, crispy batter folded with a pesto of garlic, rosemary, and lard (and often sausage meat). It’s the ultimate "guilty pleasure" snack.
● Gnocco Fritto: Little pillows of fried dough that puff up. You stuff them with salty prosciutto or Mortadella while they’re still hot.
● Tortellini in Brodo: Tiny, hand-folded pasta filled with meat, served in a rich, steaming capon or beef broth. This is the soul of Bologna.
● Tagliatelle al Ragù: Forget "Spag Bol - this is the OG. Silky egg pasta with a slow-cooked, rich meat sauce.
● Traditional Balsamic (DOP): Not the stuff you find on supermarket shelves. Look for the tiny bulb-shaped bottles, a single drop on a chunk of 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano will change your life!
● Zuppa Inglese: A classic dessert - layers of sponge soaked in Alchermes (a bright red herbal liqueur) and custard.

The next morning, the red sky turned to blue, and the birds began to sing with a "movie-esque" atmosphere. I went for a walk through the vineyards, half-expecting to bump into Diane Lane or Julia Roberts. I literally felt like I was in a movie.
I headed to the main barn of the agriturismo, L'Alpe Neice, for breakfast. This wasn't just a breakfast spread, it was an experience. There was a bottle of balsamic next to everything. The perfect pairing for strawberries, the perfect pairing for the spinach omelette, and even the family's special cherry pie.
The Italians looked at me like I was mad for asking to sit outside in the mid-twenties heat, it’s t-shirt weather to me, but they’re all in jackets! I sat there, submerged in a rom-com, savouring every mouthful. I don't normally do breakfast, usually, it’s an on-the-go "scoff job", but I went back for thirds. I couldn't miss out on those unique flavour combinations.
I didn’t rush. I wanted to stay another night, but the hills were calling. It was time to head off into Tuscany to finally find Julia Roberts.

Agriturismo: www.lalpenice.com Winery: cadalnon.com/vinegar-farm-e-vineyards