Motorhome advice: How to fit deadlocks to steel van doors
Alarms are fine, but what about also adding something passive and mechanical, that uses no electrical power, yet greatly increases the security of your motorhome or campervan? And that can include when you’re in it.
Deadlocks are passive and, if kept clean and lubricated, very little will go wrong with them. Thieves will always want a quick means of entry and exit so just the sight of deadlocks might put them off and you should feel more secure when sleeping in your motorhome. That said, always make sure you have an easy means of exit in case of emergency. I have one door that can also be bolted from inside when I’m on board.
Millions of commercial vans have deadlocks fitted to protect the contents and, if you pay a little over the odds, Thatcham-approved versions are available. You can have them professionally fitted, of course, but if you’re a reasonably competent DIYer you should be able do the job. With T-series locks at £59 and fitting costs running from around £70 to £116, it really can be worth it.
My latest in a long line of projects is a VW T5 camper that will be my sole vehicle. A 2010 180DSG 4Motion SWB panel van was purchased – a very rare beast and mine is a one-owner, 28,000-miler that I paid just £19,000 for. So, the candidate for surgery here is the ever-poplar Vee-dub, but the basic fitting process will be the same as for Fiat Ducatos, Mercedes Sprinters and Ford Transits, etc.
Dedicated kits are available for most light commercials, complete with detailed fitting instructions. I’d previously made holes in the roof for a skylight and fan, but cutting them for the locks was far more daunting. And that’s because it’s vital to be precise because, if the components do not line up, the lock won’t work. You really do not want to have to deal with big holes in the wrong places!
My approach was to extend the old adage, ‘measure twice, cut once.’ I did indeed measure twice and mark the cutting and drilling lines, but then had a half-hour break before returning and checking everything again – the instructions checked for a second time also. I curbed my natural impatience and worked slowly; allowing around half a day to fit each lock turned out to be about right.
The results have proved to be worth the effort. Not only am I happier leaving the ’van parked, I’ll also feel far more secure when camping. There’s also the possibility of getting a bit of discount when it comes to insurance renewal time. Lastly, I reckon I’ve saved around £400 doing the fitting myself.
To fit deadlocks to steel van doors, you will need:
- T-series, Thatcham-approved deadlock kits – £59 each, from various online suppliers
- Drill and drill bits
- Masking tape
- Pop rivet gun
- Screwdriver
- Measures – tape/steel rule/vernier caliper
- Pencil/marker pen
- File
- Pad saw with fine-tooth hacksaw blade or Dremel-type tool with metal cutting disc
- Small paintbrush
- Paint – 250ml Hammerite metal paint (Screwfix, £7.99)
- Sealant gun and sealant – Sikaflex EBT (or similar non-setting) available in clear, grey, black, white, brown and beige (Screwfix, £7.39)
- An aerosol of dry lock lubricant – WD40 dry PTFE (Euro Car Parts, £7.30)
- A steady hand!
1 Detailed instructions are supplied for each vehicle-specific pack. The two keys show the difference between the more basic and Thatcham-approved locks. The left key operates the non-approved, S-series locks; the right key is more difficult to pick.
2 The driver’s door nearly ready for the lock body. A vernier caliper makes some of the measurements more accurate; buy one for under £10 online. I drilled a small hole in each corner of the marked area. A Dremel fitted with a metal cutting disc finished the job. Or use a pad saw handle fitted with a fine-tooth hacksaw blade. You could also chain drill, then clean up with a file.
3 Try the lock in the hole and adjust (and de-burr) with a file to make a snug fit. If it’s too tight it may become stuck and having to lever it free risks damaging the bodywork. Apply Hammerite paint to bare metal edges.
4 Mark the position of the outer lock. Use the vernier caliper to transpose from the inside of the door to the outside. I failed to cover the area with masking tape before marking up! This would limit damage to the paintwork and help prevent the drill bit skidding across the surface.
5 Drill the two lock barrel holes. Begin with a small pilot drill as it’s easier to control. Having drilled top and bottom, finish cutting out the slot with a pad saw or Dremel. Making the aperture bigger than the lock barrel makes it easier to slide into the inserted lock body; the escutcheon plate covers it once fitted. Next, check the barrel and body fit together easily in situ, then insert a single screw through the front of the lock body that holds the two together. Now hold the lock body in place and mark through the fixing holes on its front.
6 Take the lot apart and drill the holes for the pop rivets. Apply sealant to the back of the lock body plate and reassemble. Pop-rivet the body in place; you’ll need to apply a bit of force to the rivet gun; these are very strong, heavy-duty rivets. Taking several small ‘bites’, having the gun’s handles closer together made operating it much less painful. Fit the escutcheon. Slide the plate over the barrel and mark the fixing holes. Remove, drill the holes, apply sealant to the back of the plate, reassemble and insert the rivets. Test that the lock operates smoothly.
7 Fit the keep plate to the door jamb. Apply paint to the end of the lock bolt, shut the door and operate the lock a few times. This will mark the position of the centre of the keep plate on the shut of the door. Then offer up the keep, marking and cutting the slot. There’s plenty of leeway, as the plate’s slot is far longer than the bolt’s vertical dimensions. Again, mark the fixing holes and apply the two heavy-duty rivets, having first applied a squirt of sealant.
8 The tailgate keep plate is right-angled and needs to be fitted to the bodywork behind the rear light cluster using pop rivets and self-tapping screws. Finally, lubricate all locks with dry lock lube and repeat this application once a month. ‘Wet’ lubricants (WD40 or three-in-one oil) will attract road grime and dirt, leading to a damaged and/or seized lock.
This feature was originally published in the February 2018 issue of MMM magazine. Want to read more like it? To get your monthly dose of technical motorhome advice, subscribe to MMM magazine.
