rp272 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 We have recently changed our car and caravan for a 2008 AutoTrail Delaware and have only spent a single night in it so far. This is about to change! I am preparing for a 4 day trip to iron out any problems before we venture off for 2 months to try and find some sunshine. My first job was to clean and flush the freshwater tank using Tesco's own brand sterilising fluid. This is much cheaper than 'Milton' but seems to have disappeared from the shelves - I hope only temporarily. I filled the tank and watched the LCD display change 0-25-50-75-100% Full. As I ran the water through the various taps there seemes to be no corresponding change on the waste tank display. It stayed at 0% and then suddenly went to 100% and began flashing - no warning that the tank was reaching full. A bit like a fuel tank that lets you know it is empty when the engine dies! Is this normal behaviour or could something be wrong with the sensor? I have sussed why the waste fills so much quicker than the fresh empties though as it is only about half the size 68lt against 136lt fresh. I believed the dealer who said they were 100lt each. That will teach me to check the specifications more carefully and not just rely on what a salesman tells me! Finally the kitchen sink takes ages to empty. Unlike most caravans there is a small 'trap' fitted. I removed the base but there was nothing obviously wrong but it did seem to speed the emptying for a while. The sink then began to fill faster than the waste pipe could empty it and the flow from the tap is adequate but not that great! This has all the hallmarks of an air lock but I can not see where it may be. I did notice a gurgling from the shower and wonder if that might be a clue... Does anyone know how the pipework runs? I would be grateful for any advice. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michele Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Sorry can't give any advice . I do wonder why they fit these gadgets when they don't seem to help . Mine does the same you think you have half a tank and find out its empty :-( to late then isnt it . Can you try a plunger or will that not work ..have a brill 2 months away . ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Hi Roger.. First of(and sorry if you know this already),I think you need to be a bit careful when using milton type fluids,as I've heard they can damage the water heaters(stainless components) if left in too long. As for the "gurgling" from the taps,we sometimes find it takes some time to fully "prime" our system through after it's been fully drained down..it took us a bit of "trial and error" before we found the best order to "bleed" our taps through... Our sink drain can just about keep pace with the taps in our current van..but the water flow in our previous van would've been able to overwhelm the sink drain..so they do vary. To be honest,we've always found the waste tank gauges on the vans we've had, to be a hit'n'miss affair...They'll seem to work accurate and "linear" one minute...and then swing from empty too full on the next outing.We did have our current one "looked at" when we first bought it but it still has a mind of it's own(..I assume " sensors " may get "gummed up" :-S ) Anyway,I dare say there'll be some Autotrail owners will be along soon... Chris Oops sorry! it appears Michele is already here... (lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michele Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Lol, I am here but I don't do internal plumbing haha. Can or would it not be easier to drain down the whole system as you say its gurgling ? Airlock ? Just re fill and start again . I know its a pain but it might solve it .. Now whos who in pipe maintenance.. 8-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Hi Roger and congrats on buying an AT! I'll start by echoing Chris's comments about Milton and similar - DO NOT USE THEM! The Chlorine in them attacks Stainless Steel and will perforate heater tanks over time. Even after extensive flushing the problem can still occur as the Chlorine is retained in the limescale within the tank and will carry on attacking it! Next, you are right about the level sensors. The fresh water tank has 4 levels which 'switch' as the level rises or falls, it is not a linear gauge. As for the waste tank it will only register when empty or full, nothing in between :-( Third point, NEVER, EVER trust a used car salesman! The only thing they are any good at is extracting cash (only joking really but you get my point). Finally the sink drain will probably be a fairly long run of convoluted hose which will have little or no fall on it. It will be very dependent on whether you park nose up or nose down, you will find the best situation by experimentation! If the shower drain gurgles when you empty the sink there is a possibility that the tank breather is blocked, try opening the tank drain then emptying the sink to see if this helps. Any other questions then just ask. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 We have learnt over many years to ignore water tank gauges because they are notoriously inconsistent. You quickly learn how long a tankful lasts for your own specific kind of use and from this how often you need to refill and empty on a just in time basis. Not what you wanted to hear no doubt but a well used and reliable method! Slow draining sinks often have more to horizontal pipework and a lack of gravity in the fall and has more to do with poor design than blockages. That said vigorous use of a plunger (we carry one in the van!) to clear the pipes often helps, particularly with the convoluted type of flexible waste pipe commonly in use. Sometimes you can unclip and reroute a waste to give it more fall and this too can help. We too never use Milton or bleach as it can harm stainless steel. That said as long as you don't leave it to stand for too long and rinse well with eau de tap you should be OK. Be aware of frost damage in winter and ensure that the system is well drained down - especially the hot water tank - and leave all the taps open. When you refill you may get airlocks and much gurgling and spitting but it should clear itself eventually. If not taking off the shower head and sucking like billyo with the pump on should get it moving again - although you might well end up with a face full of water so do it in the shower compartment! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Michele..While you're here,how have you got on with that new Heki rooflight? ...has it been "tested" yet? (lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp272 Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Keithl - 2013-01-08 7:32 PM I'll start by echoing Chris's comments about Milton and similar - DO NOT USE THEM! The Chlorine in them attacks Stainless Steel and will perforate heater tanks over time. Even after extensive flushing the problem can still occur as the Chlorine is retained in the limescale within the tank and will carry on attacking it! Next, you are right about the level sensors. The fresh water tank has 4 levels which 'switch' as the level rises or falls, it is not a linear gauge. As for the waste tank it will only register when empty or full, nothing in between :-( Finally the sink drain will probably be a fairly long run of convoluted hose which will have little or no fall on it. It will be very dependent on whether you park nose up or nose down, you will find the best situation by experimentation! If the shower drain gurgles when you empty the sink there is a possibility that the tank breather is blocked, try opening the tank drain then emptying the sink to see if this helps. Hi Keith Thank you (and Chris and Tracker) for the comments about Milton. It didn't stay in very long and I have subsequently filled and emptied the system again and will do the same tomorrow. It is good to know that the contents gauges are behaving as intended even though 0-100 in one jump is a bit drastic. What happens if you ignore the 'full' warning? My guess is that something nasty tries to come up through the shower tray waste! A blocked tank breather does sound a very real possibility but I have no notion where this might be or how I access it. Do you have any ideas? I haven't tried emptying the sink with the tank drain open as it getting dark and starting to rain again. Roll on winter sun! Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 I don't know about breathers or overflows on waste tanks but it is not unknown for some to drill a small hole near the top of the waste tank under the middle of the van to allow any excess to drain onto the ground rather than back up - not that I would ever do such a thing myself of course. Fresh water tanks do usually have an overflow to prevent overfilling and allow air to be displaced by water but some rely on the open filler vent for this. Overflows are sometimes well below the top of the tank which very effectively reduces it's capacity. Sometimes you can get underneath and locate and reroute the overflow to loop a bit higher so air still gets out and the tank fills more fully. Tank capacity is less of an issue if you only ever use sites but for off site camping such as Aires etc where you can't always rely on there being water where you stop getting a full tank helps duration between fills. Refill and empty are usually more dependant on when the loo needs doing and we find it more convenient to try and do all three at one go every two / three / four days depending on type of use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patricia Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 My m/home is older than yours so there will probably be differences in the display panels. I have to set my fresh water display each time I fill it and even then it is hardly accurate. The waste tank light only comes on when it is full. However, I usually leave the drain tap open and collect the water in a container so this is not a problem. After a complete drain down it takes quite a time to get the water to run freely but if the hot water taps are allowed to run first then the system clears of air more quickly. I have never particularly noticed that the sink is slow to drain. The trap under the kitchen sink is very useful to stop awful odours coming from the waste tank when it is closed up for travelling. I also put a small seive in the sink hole to catch bits of food before they can enter the waste tank. Liquid soap is also better to prevent soap sludge. As for sterilising the cold water system I buy tablets from a camping shop but don't worry too much about it as I never draw water from the fresh water tank to drink. I always either fill a container with fresh water from the tap or, especially when in France, buy bottled water and then put it through filters. A good tip for levelling the van on unlevel ground is to drive up the slope as this oftens negates the need for levellers. You may very well know some of this but the pipe set-up on a motorhome is usually very different to that of a caravan. Enjoy your trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliffy Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 Roger Assuming your van is the same as our 2004 Aurotrail Tracker the breather for the fresh water tank is in the filler pipe you will here it rattle when you fill it with a hose. The waste tank has a gauge point high up on the the side of the tank nearest the to the filler point. The guage is just an easy push fit so if you just pull on it and wiggle it, it will come out, You will shortly have to find out how to do this as the gauge needs regular cleaning as it gets gunged up with grease and then only registers as being always full or alway enpty depending on where it is stuck. Because it is such an easy fit if the tank gets full the water seeps out around the guage head. If you put wate water down faster than it seeps out around the guage it will back up into the shower. The kitchen sink does only drain slowly. I stripped ours down and came to the conclusion that it is due to the fact that there is only a small hole around 6-8mm diameter in the side of the trap for the water to drain out of which even when clear is not enough to empty as fast as it will fill. This my experience of our van but I think it is common to most Autotrails of the period, it is something that could be improved but it is only a small issue compared to all the good stuff that comes with an Autotrail. (Generally) I am sure you will come to love your van and a very short time away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelly58 Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Get a bottle of Elsan Fresh Water Tank Cleaner about £6.99 and use as instructed add to half a tank of water and have a good ride round to agitate the mix then empty refill and empty again this should cure the problem. The probes in the fresh water tank will have some scale / residue on them due to lack of use which the cleaner should remove , you may have to do this a couple of times , but usually once is enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 rp272 - 2013-01-08 8:29 PM ...A blocked tank breather does sound a very real possibility but I have no notion where this might be or how I access it. Do you have any ideas? I haven't tried emptying the sink with the tank drain open as it getting dark and starting to rain again... The breather/overflow for a motorhome's waste-water tank may comprise a fairly-large diameter hose coming from the top of the tank and leading downwards, or just a few small holes drilled into the tank's top. The latter arrangement seems to be commonplace for UK-built motorhomes. Even if a breather/overflow were completely blocked, water may well still drain into the tank provided that 'traps' are not fitted to sink, wash-basin and shower-tray outlets, as the tank will be able to vent itself through those outlets. So following Keithl's advice regarding draining the sink with the tank's drain-valve open won't necessarily prove that the tank's breather/overflow is blocked or not.. If (as seems likely) your Delaware's waste-water tank's overflow/breather is the 'holes-in-the-top' variety, the simplest way to check for a blockage would be to completely fill the tank (with the tank's drain-valve closed of course!) and see what happens. If water pours out from beneath the vehicle, you'll know that the tank's breather/overflow is not blocked: if water backs up into the shower-tray, wash-basin or sink, you'll know that the breather/overflow is blocked. Cliffy mentions his motorhome's waste-water tank level-sensor here: http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Waste-Tank-Level-indicator/29420/ I don't know which make of 'float-switch' level-sensor Auto-Trail has used, but there's no doubt that the switch should NOT act as a breather/overflow. The ZIG-made float-switch on my Herald was designed so that it could be fitted from outside the tank if access to the tank's interior was impracticable or difficult. This method of installation was not as solid as a 'from the inside' installation, but it was still pretty firm and should not leak. As has already been suggested, it's a lottery as to how good water drainage will be in a motorhome and, if a sink, wash-basin or shower-tray is slow to drain, you may well have to accept this as a 'characteristic'. As Kethl advises, drainage can sometimes be speeded up by parking the vehicle in a particular (though not necessarily logical) manner. You could try filling your kitchen sink to the brim and, when you remove the plug, see if drainage is more rapid. My Hobby's wash-basin is slow to drain (hardly surprising given the length of its drainage hose) but water will siphon rapidly from the basin into the waste-water tank if I fill the basin to the brim. It's not an every-day solution, but may indicate where a slow-drainage problem lies. Muck will tend to build up in motorhome waste-water pipework and the time-honoured method of combating this is to tip bleach down the waste outlets every now and again. There are alternatives: http://www.caravantalk.co.uk/community/topic/42101-best-way-of-cleaning-waste-water-pipes/ I can't say I favour Tracker's method of using a plunger vigorously to clear motorhome pipes. The technique may be OK with domestic plumbing, but the pipework generally used in motorhomes is a good deal more fragile. It's an option, but not one I'd consider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Derek Uzzell - 2013-01-09 10:08 AM I can't say I favour Tracker's method of using a plunger vigorously to clear motorhome pipes. The technique may be OK with domestic plumbing, but the pipework generally used in motorhomes is a good deal more fragile. It's an option, but not one I'd consider. Fair enough Derek and I undertsand what you mean. However I have been using a plunger as required on caravans, boats and motorhomes for over 40 years and I have never experienced any problems. What the plunger does is swish water both up and down the pipes and the reverse flow seems to shift a lot of gunge - especially if warm water is used. However if you have a complete blockage greater care is needed as you could, I suppose in theory, blast any not very strong connections apart or even split a time hardened pipe or fitting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Melvin Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 rp272 - 2013-01-08 6:42 PM We have recently changed our car and caravan for a 2008 AutoTrail Delaware and have only spent a single night in it so far. This is about to change! I am preparing for a 4 day trip to iron out any problems before we venture off for 2 months to try and find some sunshine. My first job was to clean and flush the freshwater tank using Tesco's own brand sterilising fluid. This is much cheaper than 'Milton' but seems to have disappeared from the shelves - I hope only temporarily. I filled the tank and watched the LCD display change 0-25-50-75-100% Full. As I ran the water through the various taps there seemes to be no corresponding change on the waste tank display. It stayed at 0% and then suddenly went to 100% and began flashing - no warning that the tank was reaching full. A bit like a fuel tank that lets you know it is empty when the engine dies! Is this normal behaviour or could something be wrong with the sensor? I have sussed why the waste fills so much quicker than the fresh empties though as it is only about half the size 68lt against 136lt fresh. I believed the dealer who said they were 100lt each. That will teach me to check the specifications more carefully and not just rely on what a salesman tells me! Finally the kitchen sink takes ages to empty. Unlike most caravans there is a small 'trap' fitted. I removed the base but there was nothing obviously wrong but it did seem to speed the emptying for a while. The sink then began to fill faster than the waste pipe could empty it and the flow from the tap is adequate but not that great! This has all the hallmarks of an air lock but I can not see where it may be. I did notice a gurgling from the shower and wonder if that might be a clue... Does anyone know how the pipework runs? I would be grateful for any advice. Roger Hi we had similr problem with our 2008 Autotrail. (a) From day one our sink was very slow to empty it turned out to be kink in the waste pipe, however according to Discovery it has been known around 2007/2008 for the waste pipe being to long and rolled up inside the waste tank ?, (b) regarding the tank sensors, I contacted Sargent Electics, they told me to just clean up the external connector, it has worked fine for the past 4 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pelmetman Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Tracker - 2013-01-08 7:37 PM We have learnt over many years to ignore water tank gauges because they are notoriously inconsistent. You quickly learn how long a tankful lasts for your own specific kind of use and from this how often you need to refill and empty on a just in time basis. Not what you wanted to hear no doubt but a well used and reliable method! Yep totally agree Rich ;-).............these gauges have got to be one of the most useless bits of kit fitted to campers *-)..................gave up on ours years ago................I see they're no better.........progress eh? :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 I believe you'll find that, in his original posting, rp272 did not question the accuracy of the contents-readouts for his motorhome's fresh-water tank, he merely observed that the readout for the waste-water tank went from 0% to 100% with no intermediate values being provided. Cliffy said much the same thing in another thread (the one I gave a link to in my last posting), but it's inevitable that no intermediate waste-tank readouts can be provided with the type of float-switch contents-level sensor evidently fitted by Auto-Trail. In fact, on Pages 7 and 8 of the instructions for the Sargent system used by Auto-Trail http://www.sargentltd.co.uk/EC325_User_Instructions.pdf it is explained that (as rp272 said) five fresh-water tank readouts of 0%, 25%, 50%, 75% or 100% are available, whereas only two measurements - normally 0% or 100% - are provided for the waste-water tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp272 Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 Derek Uzzell - 2013-01-09 1:41 PM I believe you'll find that, in his original posting, rp272 did not question the accuracy of the contents-readouts for his motorhome's fresh-water tank, he merely observed that the readout for the waste-water tank went from 0% to 100% with no intermediate values being provided. Cliffy said much the same thing in another thread (the one I gave a link to in my last posting), but it's inevitable that no intermediate waste-tank readouts can be provided with the type of float-switch contents-level sensor evidently fitted by Auto-Trail. In fact, on Pages 7 and 8 of the instructions for the Sargent system used by Auto-Trail http://www.sargentltd.co.uk/EC325_User_Instructions.pdf it is explained that (as rp272 said) five fresh-water tank readouts of 0%, 25%, 50%, 75% or 100% are available, whereas only two measurements - normally 0% or 100% - are provided for the waste-water tank. Hi Derek Thank you for the link to Sargent EC325 instructions. It was on my list of things to do and has saved me the trouble. It does confirm my findings so I just have to put up with the 0-100% of the waste tank. I tried with the tank drain open and did not notice a massive increase in speed of emptying but a kettle full of boiling water went down a treat! I guess that there is some long standing gunge down there and a plunger might help. We're off the the dealer to get a more serious problem sorted. It appears that we cannot lock the habitation door except with a key from the outside. This would be manageable short term but it does not allow the door to be opened from the inside either. Very dangerous in an emergency. Hopefully most bugs will get ironed out in the next few days. We have now booked passage to Bilbao at the end of the month in the hope of finding a bit of sun a bvit further South. Thanks to everyone for their constructive help and suggestions. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Hi Roger.. ..again,I'm probably stating the obvious here but in view of the fact that you'll be going away in it for a couple of months soon and seeing as the van is going back in anyway,make sure you try absolutely EVERYTHING to make sure it functions properly(Fridge,water heater,blown air heating etc,all on gas,12v and on hook-up)?... ..as MH dealers are notoriously dire at PDI(ing) their vehicles!..instead,they seem to rely on the customer to "fault find" for them(..as it seems you're finding out :-S ) One other small thing(..and I'm not sure if this if "frowned upon" or not)but if the water heater has an auto-drain valve,one which dumps the water if the temp drops (..to 5C I think?),it may be worth sourcing an "R" clip to help keep it closed..because depending on the valves location,you may find that the temp' drop and wind chill when travelling,results in you loosing your water. Once the heating's on,the valves shouldstay shut okay though.. Having said that,as you'll be heading down to sunnier climes,it shouldn't be a problem.... :-D Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 Good point, Chris. The valve can open even if the heating is normally being used, but has been turned off overnight. This can allow the temperature around the heater to fall into the "danger zone". Not familiar with R clips, but an alternative would be a spring clothes peg, preferably wood (extra friction). However, if you do either, do make sure you leave at least the water heating on overnight (lowest temperature range will do), should the temperature get down near freezing - especially if it is also windy. Truma heater jackets are stainless steel and, if split by the contents freezing, will cost you a new heater! They do hold around 11 litres of water, which will not freeze instantly, but if no local heat is available, and the conditions are sufficiently severe, nature will eventually have its little way! Ouch!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Brian Kirby - 2013-01-10 5:49 PM Good point, Chris. The valve can open even if the heating is normally being used, but has been turned off overnight. This can allow the temperature around the heater to fall into the "danger zone". Not familiar with R clips, but an alternative would be a spring clothes peg, preferably wood (extra friction). However, if you do either, do make sure you leave at least the water heating on overnight (lowest temperature range will do), should the temperature get down near freezing... Hi Brian... Glad I didn't get totally "shot down" for suggesting it..although I suppose there's still plenty of time!? (lol) (..I'm sure someone will be along ,posting links to Truma's website and/or previous threads on the topic. ;-) ) I did originally use a clothes peg but I found some old "R" clips kicking about in the shed: http://www.springmasters.com/sp/retaining-pins-inch.html ...one was just the right size to slip around the "stem" of the valve and sit in the "groove". (I suppose it should really be a "Hairpin" clip: http://www.thread-rite.com/pins/hairpin_clips.htm ..but I didn't have any o' them... ) Yes, I should've made more of point of saying that if someone was to "disable" their drain valve during "cold" weather,then best if the heating remains on(...I wouldn't want someone following the suggestion,splitting their boiler... :$ ) C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolero boy Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 We had a problem with our Truma Combi 4E while we were away for 4 months in France and Spain. We noticed the water pump kicking in periodically just for a second or too, then again a few mins later. Ah, I thought, we are losing water from somewhere. Luckily, with us being in the van we were able to find the leak straight away. It was under the boiler. To cut a long story short, we drained the boiler, isolated the hot water system and used warm air heat with no water, relying on the site facilities for the remainder of our break. The van is still under full warranty so I wasn't too worried about getting this resolved. My point is, following the dealer's contact with Truma, they said two things: firstly, theu needed to inspect the boiler before they would authorise the repair/replacement, secondly, if they found the damage to caused by misuse of harmful chemical cleaners (namely Milton) or to be from frost damage, they would not sanction the repair under warranty 'as these were the only causes for failure of these units'. I say this to reinforce the previous post re frost damage. Following their investigation (which was commentable speedy) they reported that they had found a small pinhole in the boiler which resulted in the leak and that this was not a result of the two conditions above. I asked my dealer what Truma had said had been the cause of the pinhole leak - they got no useful reply ;-) However, I could not fault their (or my dealer's) committment to getting this speedily resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonflyer Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Welcome to the joys of Motorhoming. Is your tank half full or half empty? I always consider our tank half full, which means that unlike with a caravan pitched up, we take every opportunity to empty the waste tank, especially in Europe. It is usually easier to find fresh water than an accessible discharge position. A further point I would like to mention - please take care that any hose you use for fresh water is truly clean. There are some unhygienic folk around who ignore notices and flush out the cassette with the hose. Some bacterial wipes may come in handy as well as watching others behaviour. Joyce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I think a 2008 Auto-Trail Delaware would have been fitted with a Truma C-6002EH gas/230V combination air/water heater, so the warnings about the electrical safety/drain-valve opening and dumping the heater's 12-litres of water (or even siphoning out the complete contents of the fresh-water tank if a submerged water-pump has been fitted) will be appropriate. If the water in a C-Series's water tank freezes, it's quite likely to split the tank. Replacing the tank won't be cheap, but a split tank doesn't write off the heater. The Truma C-3402 appliance retro-fitted to my Herald began to leak water. As with bolero boy's Combi heater, a tiny flaw in the stainless-steel tank was causing the problem. I asked the Truma technicians at the time whether adding Milton to the fresh-water might have provoked the flaw, but they dismissed that possibility, concluding that the 'pin hole' (which was on a weld line) was due to faulty manufacture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leake Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Later versions of the AutoTrails do give a reading for the level of water in the waste tank. Our 2011 model does. Having said that its no more accurate than the fresh water gauge but that's a tradition for motorhomes that goes back many years. Bit like a watch I had when very young that gave you an estimate of what it thought the time may possibly be rather that telling you what it really was! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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