26/05/2014
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Motorhome travel: Pembrokeshire

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I like to do some advance planning, especially when using public transport to get back to base rather than walking to and from my unit. When doing this, I prefer to take the bus ‘out’ and walk back. This takes the pressure off the walker, with no return timetable to worry about.

Local buses are good and relatively inexpensive. Talking of navigating, there’s a free app for Android phones called ‘My Tracks’. Working on GPS, this pinpoints where you are and gives you full statistics on your day when you want to gloat about where you have been. It provides clear directions to get you back to your starting point, if required. It can also superimpose your walk onto a detailed map so you can readily identify the names of those little coves you just weren’t too sure of.



Part of the attraction of Gower is its compactness. It’s possible to see most of the best parts in two or three days’ walking, with a motorhome being the ideal base. I make use of National Trust car parks where they exist. These are nearly always free to members. The NT park at Pennard is particularly well placed for walking in the direction of Caswell Bay. It’s a good day’s walk there and back, especially if you extend it to Langland Bay.

The other option is to walk in the direction of Three Cliffs and on towards Rhossili, with its dramatic cliffs, immense beach and the tiny Worm’s Head on the tip of the peninsula. This can be accessed across a causeway with care when the tide is right. Every year brings a crop of people stranded when they misjudge the tides, so take local advice if you wish to cross. On Gower you will encounter some of the loveliest beaches to be found anywhere, with hidden gems like Pwlldu and Brandy Cove. There’s also wildlife to look out for, so take some binoculars and you might be fortunate enough to spot a chough. These birds have been reintroduced to the area around Pennard.

Further west, the Pembrokeshire coastal path is rightly famous and has been a favourite walkers’ haunt for many years. Walking the paths there, even on less than ideal days, you will come across walkers from all over Europe who are drawn to the area. Many have planned their walk very carefully, going from lodging to lodging whatever the weather. Those of us fortunate enough to have mobile comfort can afford to be choosier about the weather we walk in. The complete path round Pembrokeshire takes in 58 beaches and 14 harbours. Perhaps the best thing is not to try to blitz it, but to savour each part as you go.


On this short break, I used the Camping and Caravanning Club Site described as St Davids, though it’s actually 
situated on a headland a few miles out of St Davids, above the tiny hamlet and beach of Abereiddy. The site is slightly sloping. If on standard pitches, you will definitely need your levelling blocks. The helpful wardens will suggest which pitches are easiest for motorhomes. With an unrestricted view out over the sea towards the setting sun, it’s certainly worth the effort to get level. The site boasted spotless facilities, plenty of hot water and the office doubles as an ‘emergencies’ shop.

The walking is very varied, sometimes being a gentle stroll across open fields, then down gorse-lined tracks closer to the cliff edge and, occasionally, along the beaches themselves. Where the paths drop into a village or hamlet, there is usually a local pub offering refreshment and, often, wonderful seafood lunches. The walking is best suited to adults. Those with children are advised to choose their sections carefully and exercise considerable care since the paths can be very close to large drops in places.

This article is an extract from a longer piece in July 2014 MMM magazine. To order your copy - click here



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