CAMPING IN THE NORTH OF SCOTLAND
Discover towering mountains, atmospheric glens and magnificent beaches in the north of Scotland… as well as the occasional midge
Scotland has a fair claim to be considered the ‘outdoor capital’ of the United Kingdom with walkers, mountain bikers and climbers finding the place a little bit of Heaven on earth. For those who like to tour in cars with a tent this really is Britain’s last great wilderness where you can get far, far away from other human beings if you so desire.
The north coast from John o’ Groats to Durness, with a continuation south to Ullapool, has to be one of the best drives to be had anywhere in our land; but let us not forget Rannoch Moor, Glencoe, the isles of Mull and Skye, the scenic drive along Loch Lomond and of course, the magnificent Cairngorm mountain range. They all combine to make the north of Scotland a unique holiday area be you outdoor enthusiasts or family campers. Indeed, for families who love camping in the most impressive and stunning of surroundings, the region is a magnet.
Campsites range from those with full facilities right down to farm and forest sites only accessed down rough long tracks into remote glens. And the weather can be a surprise too. Most think of Scottish summers as being dank and cold but often, and especially in the early parts of the summer (May and June), the sun can put in an appearance and settled weather can prevail for weeks.
However, it can be cold and you need to be brave to put a toe in the very north where the likes of Sandwood Bay Beach in Caithness and Sutherland must rank high amongst the very best of beaches to be found in our land. It is made even more special by the towering sea stack Am Buachaille and the fact you have to walk over four miles from the nearest road to get to the sand.
Whether you intend to climb Ben Nevis (perfectly possible for a fit family party on a sunny day) from Fort William, island hop on Calmac ferries, camp in the middle of nowhere or simply just travel around and soak in the glorious panoramas and enjoy the almost endless day light you get in the very North of Scotland in June and July, then start a love affair with The Highlands that will probably end up lasting a lifetime.
The only words of caution I would offer you would be to take warm clothes as well as shorts and t-shirts to cover all weather possibilities and make sure you go prepared to cope with the midges that can be a real nuisance to a camper in the summer months. If you’ve never experienced the misery of a swarm of Scottish midges on a damp still day while you try to camp...well, let’s just say it’s not a lot of fun! You have been warned!
SHIELING HOLIDAY CAMPING SITE
Visiting an island is always exciting and when that island is the Isle of Mull then there is something even more special about the whole experience. Home to the elusive osprey, many seals, dolphins and even a pod of killer whales that visit each year, Mull is a magical place. From the moment you disembark the ferry at Craignure you feel remote and away from it all. There are mountains to climb where you will see few other people, numerous opportunities for bird and wildlife watching all over the island and you can catch yet another ferry to visit the mystical island of Iona with its abbey and sense of peace and reputation as being the burial place of the early kings of Scotland.Shieling Holiday Site is located within a few moments of the ferry terminal at Craignure and is a superb place to pitch your tent - the location is magnificent overlooking the sea (and the mainland) and includes glimpses of faraway Ben Nevis on clear days. The site is in two parts with the camping field being the upper area and having the best views and the caravans restricted to the lower parts of the site. The camping field is slightly sloping but the pitches are terraced and have been laid with Astroturf to save wear and tear on the grass during in the season which is a great idea. You can bring your car to your pitch to set up and break camp but that is all – the rest of the time it has to stay in the designated parking areas to keep the field uncluttered and clear.
The views from the camping field are simply superb. You are incredibly close to the sea on just about any part of this site and there are seals on the rocky beach below. The toilet block on the top field is quite unique and is located inside a giant tent that is permanently pitched and both clean and discreet. There are showers and wash basins and kids love going to the area as it is so different. The TV and common room next door are of a similar design, while you will find a games room, family bath room and a washing room just off the main camping area and there are also several large permanently erected tents (or ‘chalets’ as they are known) for hire.
The site has a launderette and just to complete the ‘outdoor’ feel, there is even a campfire and barbeque point.
Kids will love it here. There is crabbing with crab lines off the old pier just outside the site, a superb play area next to the harbour and just a general feeling of freedom and peace. This is a great place to go anytime of the season and the site is family run, very clean and well organised with the surrounding area being simply stunning.
You may find it hard to leave your tent with all those views, but try to as Mull is an island well worth exploring with a visit to Tobemory, Iona and a climb of lofty Ben More all worth considering.
SHIELING HOLIDAYS CAMPING SITE
Craignure, Isle Of Mull PA65 6AY
01680 812496
www.shielingholidays.co.uk
GLENCOE CAMPING AND CARAVANNING CLUB SITE
For our second choice of north Scottish campsites let’s re-cross to the mainland again and head into the mountains to visit Glencoe, probably one of the most dramatic glens in Scotland and much loved by climbers, walkers and tourists alike.I always find that there is something brooding and creepy about Glencoe even on a sunny day, and on a day of low light and black clouds it can be really spooky. This is probably due to the infamous massacre that took place here in 1692.
Glencoe Camping and Caravanning Club site is situated at the entrance to the glen and close by where the massacre happened – indeed the woods between the site and Glencoe village (where a pleasant path gives access to forest walking) bears memorial plaques to this appalling episode in our history and was the scene of much of the massacre. All that being said, the site has the most magnificent views back up the glen and you would have to go a long way to get more breathtaking mountain vistas that those you can see from the camping field. Bidean Nam Bian (the highest summit in Argyll) towers over the site. There is an elevated grassy bump in the centre of the caravan field where the wardens allow some of the smaller tents to pitch (although cars have to be left below) and where the views are even better again.
The main camping field is a bit sloping and can be very wet after rain, but it is delightfully secluded and has deer in the woods beyond and numerous owls at night. The surrounding woodland is well managed by the National Trust for Scotland and provides some nice walking. There is some road noise from the A82 at night (which runs nearby) but nothing too serious. The site has a decent toilet and shower block and the wardens are helpful and knowledgeable about the local area. There is a laundry room and a family shower room along with dish-washing facilities and a nice dog walk through the woodland.
A barrier controls comings and goings on the site which gets very busy in the summer season. The site offers drying lockers for wet clothing (free - deposit required) but they are on useful for damp cloths and not if gear gets really wet on the hills in a full on Scottish downpour. The Glenoce visitor centre is right next to the site and is a good place to keep up your sleeve if the weather goes bad – the display about the massacre (fee) is well worth seeing.
Just sitting here and soaking in the view is enough for most but walking and cycling opportunities abound and for those wishing to tour and explore the area you couldn’t wish for a better location. Try taking a ferry across Loch Linnhe or take a trip to Fort William under towering Ben Nevis and journey on Jacobite Steam Train which many railway enthusiasts consider one of the best railway journeys in Britain.
However you choose to spend your time here you will find you come away with many memories and rather a lot of photographs too!
GLENCOE CAMPING AND CARAVANNING CLUB SITE
Ballachulish, Argyll CA12 5EP
01855 811397
www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk
THE INVERCAULD CARAVAN CLUB SITE
No look at North Scotland would be complete without a stay near the Cairngorm mountains – one of the UK’s last great wildernesses. So let’s travel to Royal Deeside, probably the most spectacular area of Aberdeenshire in the Highlands and very close to the magnificent Cairngorms.Also in this area you will find the royal retreat of Balmoral, wonderful glens such as Glen Shee (with its ski facilities) and the atmospheric village of Braemar. There are not a lot of campsites to stay on in the Braemar area, yet it is one of the most centrally located places in the region to base yourself. The Invercauld Caravan Club site solves the problem of where to pitch very nicely. Situated at the foot of the northern end of Glen Shee and just a short walk out of Braemar, Invercauld is a superb location surrounded by mountains and an ideal base for the area.
The site is quite large and is open to non-members. For campers the great thing is that it takes tents as well as caravans and these have a few separate areas, some in trees, and one on an open field with views back up Glen Shee.
The site covers about 9.5 acres and the camping areas are close to the caravan section but separate from it. Overall the site is well laid out with a good road network around it and is extremely well organised and run. For dog owners the sites dog walk is an adventure in itself following a lovely wood by a stream where you will see hares, rabbits and red squirrel. Deer are very common in this area and are often seen in the fields near the site. Invercauld has facilities for ski storage for the winter ski season (the site opens from early December until mid-October) and a large drying room for outdoor gear when things get wet.
There is also a well-stocked information room where you can sit and check up on what you want to do in peace and quiet. There is a popular children’s play area and the site has a large population of ducks that roam around the caravans looking for titbits. In spring they trail numerous chicks behind them and kids love it.
This is a great site where you find lots of time to relax. It is neat and tidy and as well as being used for a base by a lot of people, many others just stop over for the night as they tour Scotland. The camping area in particular is constantly changing and there are always plenty of people to chat to. This is a high level site located at 1,100ft above sea level and it can get cold for camping in early and late season once night falls and the winter months often see plenty of snow on the ground covering the pitches.
Braemar is a lovely village, which is popular with tourists but is quaint and well worth a visit in the evening when the coaches have gone and you can experience the real charm of the place. You can walk into it from the camping field in less than 10 minutes.
Be you walker, climber, mountain biker or general family camper looking to do some sightseeing, this is a stunning area of the Highlands and you will find you will return here time and again once you have been once.
THE INVERCAULD CARAVAN CLUB SITE
Glenshee Road, Braemar, Ballater, Aberdeenshire AB35 5YQ
01339 741373 (SITE)
www.caravanclub.co.uk
