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motorhome to corsica?


myland rose

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Guest JudgeMental

 

did you see it last night on "place in the sun" lol

 

it is a great island,with fantastic beaches. I have toured around it in a hire car but not a motorhome.

 

from memory the west coast has some challenging mountain roads probably the worst I have encountered anywhere.

 

it is a short hop by ferry to Sardinia from Corsica as well.

 

Google ferries France to Corsica and you will find what you want.

 

A trip I want to do in our camper is over to Corsica, on to Sardinia, ferry to Sicily and ferry to Italian mainland. Then tour back up through Italy. But as all places are so interesting this will have to wait till retirement....... *-)

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We toured Corsica and Sardinia in 2004, you might find the following useful.

 

CORSICA MAY 2004

 

We spent a couple of weeks in May 2004 on Corsica. We are loners/isolationists and spent most of the time free parked in mountain areas. We did spend a couple of nights on sites and free parked on beaches/harbours. In July/August the island gets over run with tourists but in May we had the place to ourselves most of the time. We met a few Dutch and French motorhomers but no Brits.

 

Don't plan a high daily mileage because the roads on the west coast/central inland routes are just not up to it. The east coast road N193/N198 from Bastia to Bonifacio (110 miles) can be used for transiting the island quickly.

 

Tourist coaches use the D 81 west coast route so it should not be a problem with a medium size coach built. There are some single track roads with passing places so if your reversing in confined places is not up to scratch don't even think about visiting the island.

 

The island lived up to it's expectations regarding narrow roads and stunning scenery. We landed at Bonifacio off the ferry from Sardinia and took the west coast route northwards. The road out of Bonifacio harbour is very steep and narrow, extreme caution is needed. The port area is very small and parking is at a premium.

 

N196 Propriano.

 

N 196 Ajaccio. Napoleon Bonaparte's birthplace

 

From Ajaccio we took the D81 north to Calvi a very narrow road in places with road works at the time.

 

D 81 Cargese

 

D 81 Piana

 

Between Piana and Porto there is Les Calanches the rock formation are stunning, not to be missed, if you are on the island.

 

D 81 Porto

 

D 81 Galeria

 

D81b Calvi

 

From Calvi we then toured the Central Mountains in the area of La Porta, Calacuccia and Corta taking in the Gorges de la Restonica and Gorges Scala di Santa Regina. The scenery in places is awesome, if you are a mountain person this is a must.

 

From the mountains we headed for St Florent and from there it was 20 km drive to Bastia to catch the ferry to Livorno. Leave yourself plenty of time to get to the ferry terminal at Bastia. The port is situated in the town centre and we found the approach roads to the town very congested. Parking outside of the port area is very difficult.

 

We used two campsites

 

Camping Mimosas Ajaccio

 

Camping d'Olzo St Florent

 

Some free parking spots.

 

Figari Port. Sign posted off the N196 about 20km from Bonifacio

 

Ajaccio Port Area. Plenty of free parking.

 

Porto Harbour.

 

Galeria Car Park.

 

Calvi. In front of Super "U" supermarket on sea front car park.

 

St Florent. Many parking places around beach area to the south of the town.

 

I haven't listed the mountain free spots as we just park up as and when.

 

Supermarkets were readily available even in the small villages.

 

Fuel. Diesel and LPG available.

 

ATM's no problems.

 

Water is "NOT" readily available.

 

Maps/Guides. We used the Michelin Atlas Routier et Touristique for France. IMO this is the best map for touring France if you, like us don't use Sat Nav.

 

We used the Lonely Planet Guide to Corsica which also includes full details of the GR 20 which is a 15 day very strenuous walk in Corsica. It also gives a lot of information about the island and places to visit.

 

TRAVEL TIPS SARDINIA APRIL 2004

 

We have just completed a 21 day 1150 mile tour of Sardinia and found it to

be a motorcaravanners paradise (in July/August possibly hell). It's a

beautiful island with wild flowers particularly good at this time of the

year. The island has something to offer most tastes. Besides the beaches and

mountains we visited an abandoned silver mine, a bronze age settlement and a

marble quarry. It was also very nice to find so many churches open. Many

stretches of road and cape areas are very scenic. In particular we found the

drive from Bosa to Alghero and Cape D'orso well worth the effort.

 

There are some specific areas signed for parking of motorhomes (unlike back

home). We found some areas where motorhomes were allowed to stay for up to

24 hours. In other areas we found signs banning motorhomes entirely It

appears the law is often only enforced in the high season.

 

Sardinia is not a cheap option. Expect to pay up to 500 Euro for a return

ferry crossing. Cost of living is higher than back home. Camp sites are very

expensive but these can be reduced by using camper services and free camping

in the low season. There are many places to free/wild camp too many to list.

 

ROADS

In the main the roads are very good. Even the fairly minor roads are well

surfaced and wide enough for passing. In some villages, small towns and some

areas of large towns the condition of the roads leave a lot to be desired.

Usually the ring or through roads are OK. Other streets can be very narrow

with very tight turns.

 

DIESEL.

Filling stations are plentiful but beware in the more remote regions their

opening hours could be 0700 - 1300 & 1700 - 2000 Hrs. In the large towns and

on the main roads filling stations are usually open 0700 Hrs to 2200 Hrs. In

April 2004 diesel cost between 92 & 98 Euro cents a litre.

 

LPG.

LPG is available in a very few places. We came across four sites selling it.

LPG is usually advertised as "Auto Gas" or GPL. By law the stations must be

in non-residential ares and are usually in rural areas or on the town

outskirts. There is a guide listing all outlets that sell LPG in Italy.

 

CAMP SITES.

On the whole the camp sites seem geared to tenters and static caravans. The

sites we checked out had very little room for large motorhomes. Most of them

had a tank emptying and water filling points. Most of the tank draining

areas were badly positioned for large motorhomes. Expect to pay between 15 -

25 Euro per night in the low season and between 30 - 40 Euro in the high

season.

 

Camper Service Areas.

Many of these provide in addition to the basic service (tank emptying &

water tank filling) Parking, Electricity & Showers/Toilets solely for

motorhomes/campers. These are fairly simple areas but this is reflected in

the price. The most we paid was 10 Euro this included electricity &

showers/toilets. It is possibly more expensive in the high season. The areas

are well signed all over the island. On the west coast we came across a

couple signed as "Camper Sosta".

 

SUPERMARKETS.

Supermarkets are plentiful. Even the small village ones were well stocked.

They are well advertised and often well signed. Principal chains "Pick up",

ISA, Pellicano & SISA we found particularly good. All the bigger ones took

the "Plastic". Minus point you have to pay for the plastic bags (5-6 Euro

cents each). Opening hours on average 0800 - 1300 and 1700 - 2000. Mon to

Sat. Possibly open 0800 - 1200 Sundays. Auchan Supermarkets can be found at

Olbia (on the SS 125 south of Olbia), Cagliari and Sassari. We shopped in

the Sassari (well signed of the SS 131 north of the city) one and it's a

huge place. Parking is very tight. A seven metre motorhome could have

problems parking. I think it would be a good idea with a large van to park

in the goods area.

 

WATER.

One of the few drawbacks of the island is the shortage of water. A couple of

years ago certain parts of the island were reduced to four hours running

water a day in the summer. We found a few springs in the mountain areas.

There are most likely others but probably not many. There are very few

public water supplies. So it's either filling stations or camper service

areas.

 

BANKS.

Banks with ATM's are plentiful and well signed. Even the smaller villages

seem to have them.

 

INTERNET CONNECTIONS

We found there were a couple of Internet Points in most towns/cities we

visited, most were closed from 1300 hrs to 1700 hrs. The only ones we found

open during these hours were the ones situated in bars/cafe. Expect to pay

up to 6 Euro per hour. Most places had a minimum time use of ten minutes,

all connections were very fast.

 

FERRIES.

As we were on our way home from wintering in Turkey we took the ferry from

Igoumenitsi (Greece) to Ancona (Italy) then the Tirrenia Line ferry from

Civitavecchia (north of Rome) to Olbia (Sardinia), We paid 250 Euro (that

included a high season supplement as it was the day before Easter) for an

overnight crossing with a two berth cabin. The ship was old and the cabin

and other onboard facilities left a lot to be desired.

 

We crossed from Sardinia (St Teresa Gullura) to Corsica (Bonifacio) with the

Saremar Line for 67 Euro. Crossing time one hour. Moby Line do the same

crossing but are more expensive.

 

I spoke with a Dutchman (car & caravan) and a German (seven metre Hymer) who

had both bought a package from Corsica Ferries for the return crossings from

Livorno to Bastia and Bonifacio to St Teresa Gullura. Both paid under 500

Euro for two return crossings. Both drove the East Coast Corsican route from

Bastia to Bonifacio with no problems at all.

 

 

 

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  • 4 months later...

Don, if you're out there and not somewhere nicer, we've been here a few days and haven't exactly ventured of the beaten East Coast road.

 

Was wondering what actually fell into your "medium sized coach built" category?

 

We're dying to get up into the mountains but having lost the use of our reversing camera, are having second thoughts (!)

 

Any opinions would be most appreciated (!)

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Hi,

 

If you feel confident in the mountains and have had some experience driving on narrow winding roads you should be able to access most of the island.

 

You have to be prepared to reverse and manoeuvre in confined spaces.

 

On the west coast route D81you should be OK as coaches use the road.

 

Just take it steady and don't take any unnecessary risks,

 

Don

 

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We were thinking of going to Corsica during our Euro-trip, but I wouldn't go near roads like that in a million years!!

 

Is it possible to get around the island at all (or at least to get from where the ferry drops you to a nice campsite near a beach) without taking a white knuckle ride?

 

Cheers :-)

 

Liz

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Don et al,

 

Got back early on Saturday morning.

 

Have compiled a rather lengthy document on all things Corsican for the benefit of others but not sure this is the right place to put it.

 

Any ideas, anyone?

 

Rose,

 

Our peak date Moby Lines ferry, Genova - Bastia, cost 325 Euros return (3 adults and an infant) The roads are fine but if you're not into heights and manoeuvring in confined spaces, stick to the main ones and you'll have a much more relaxing time.

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Guest JudgeMental

welcome back Rose!

 

load all info on here - looking forward to it!

 

was it very busy? did you use aires and any recommendations for sites

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Here it is in its entirety;

 

Dover - Dunkerque Norfolk Lines £88 booked with The Caravan Club. 10am Outward and 6am Return. Petrol and groceries at Auchan, Dunkerque and then Luxembourg Centre Exit 4 Jet garage.

 

Stopover in the Vosges. Aire at Baccarat. Right in the centre by the river and modernistic Church. On to Basle for Swiss vignette. Over the Grimsel Pass. Grim by name and grim by nature. Only 2174m but up, up and then some more. Yikes! To think we took the Grimsel instead of the infamous Furka.

 

Stopover for 3 nights just after Munster (Ritzingen) in the Goms valley. Superb cycling and walking. Cable cars to the Aletsch Glacier. Campsite on a farm off the main drag and over the river. Within 15 minute walking distance of Biel Railway Station on the Gotthard-Matterhorn railway. Very handy for getting up and down the valley to cycle or walk back.

 

Over the Simplon Pass into Italy. One of the best Alpine Passes despite the main bridge being closed and being diverted on to the old cliff-hugging road. Yikes again! Gentle gradients lifting you higher and higher with magnificent but not vertiginous views.

 

On to Genova by Motorway from Lago Maggiore and Milan. A7 closed at one point forcing us to take a huge diversion to join it again 3 junctions further South. Motorway on the outskirts of Genova more like a zig-zagging single track road limited to 70km/h. Arrived at 1am to catch Moby Lines ferry at 9am. Slept on the approach road to the ferry terminal with the world and his wife. Got into line at 6:30am to clear Ticket Control. Organised chaos with all other ferries to Tunisia and the like leaving from the same terminal. Great crossing lasting 5 hours with not one ripple.

 

Bastia - Port at North end of the city (large town) therefore allow for more time when catching the ferry. Traffic jams to and from the Centre at all times of day. Wait to fill up with diesel south of the town. 1.52 euros in Bastia 1.46 15km down the road (1.45 and less in the South and North West. Plenty of medium sized supermarkets, all the usual French suspects (Super U, Champion, Casino) and service stations at every village south of Bastia. Strange absence of fish on the East Coast menus and supermarkets. Charcuterie, charcuterie and fromage everywhere.

 

Camping in Corsica is just that, camping. Most sites are glorified Campsites designed, at best, for your average monster dome tent from Decathlon and not a 7m + campervan. Bearing in mind this was peak season (last week in July first two weeks in August) all pitches encountered were small by any standards. Forget your awning and your privacy during this period.

 

Beaches at Moriani Plage and Ghisionacchia were OK but narrow and a bit untidy with palm leaves etc. etc. La Rondinara similar but lovely shape. Bonifacio, just past the Lighthouse, outstanding by any stretch of the imagination but not exactly worth the hour up and down hike in sweltering temperatures. Top marks go to the Plage d'Arone. Excellent sand, proper waves, gentle slope, clean and safe.

 

We spent;

 

2 nights at Moriani Plage (Camping La Merendella). Obviously not what it was. Usual grid pattern of medium/small sized pitches with only a few less desirable ones available when calling on spec. Friendly but not exactly efficient or overly attractive. 7/10.

 

3 nights at L'Arinella Bianca at Ghisionacchia. Usual largish European style pool, entertainment and restaurant site. Medium/largish pitches. few available on spec. though. Good facilities but very busy. Noisy music from nearby Club. 8/10.

 

2 nights wild camping at Col de Bavella on the car park on the left (West bound) at the top of the pass. 3 euros to park during the day then just overstay your welcome. Depart before 9am to avoid paying for the next day or a row. Beautiful and outstanding spot with toilets. Fantastic walking to the Trou de La Bombe (U Campuledde) and The Refuge de I Paliri. Road up from Solenzara was a normal mountain road, lots of twists and turns and vertiginous drops but manageable even in a 7m + bikes campervan. 10/10.

 

2 nights at Camping La Rondinara just south of Porto Vecchio. Very nice crescent shaped but extremely crowded beach. Good site spoilt by the chaotic organisation of its pitches, more suited to large tents than campervans. Definitely no caravans. Narrow winding road off the main N186. Impressive infinity pool with views of Sardinia. 7/10.

 

2 nights wild camping just outside Bonifacio on the road to the lighthouse that runs along the cliffs. One night by the side of the road and one not far away, off on the D260 by the lighthouse itself. Amazing views and walking one way to Bonifacio along the cliffs, and the other to a lovely secluded beach with extraordinary white rock formations. 9/10.

 

1 night at Camping Le Soleil at Tattone, following a longish drive all the way from Bonifacio via Ajaccio, filling up with cheaper diesel just before Propriano and groceries at Carrefour in the centre of Ajaccio where there were access problems. A peaceful and very friendly glorified campsite where everyone speaks in hushed tones. Lovely except for the total lack of space for campervans and better scenery to be had further up and down the valley at any of the three "V"s Vizzavona, Venaco and Vivario. 8/10.

 

Caught single track mountain train to and from Corte rather than hiked. 9 Euros aller et retour and very spectacular. Vertiginous drops Northbound to be had to the West and then to the East. Whilst in Corte definitely eat at U Scudella in the Place Pablo (?) Paoli. Best food we had in 3 weeks on the island (3 Courses for 20 euros).

 

2 nights at Camping Le Restonica at Corte. Glorified campsite with obnoxious owners (Connard des Vacances Award 2008), restricted space, no available electricity points and a multitude of rules but with good showers. Noisy music from nearby open air concert hall. Access problems if entering by the entrance. Solution - enter by the exit instead. Check for a space on foot before entering though. Handy for the 2.5km walk to the "navettes" (shuttles) that run up the Gorge of the same name, rather than you risking life and limb in your own vehicle no matter how small. 6/10.

 

We did try the other Campsite nearby, U Sognu, first mind, but given that access was even worse (200m up the Restonica Gorge road) and when we got there we were greeted by the biggest bitch encountered on our travels ever (Connasse des Vacances Award 2008), personally I'd rather stick a needle in my eye than give her my hard-earned cash.

 

Here, let me clear up any myths about the 13km Restonica Gorge, once and for all. After 2.5kms the Gorge is supposed to be campervan free. It is not however. In fact campervan drivers with more balls than the author can actually camp further on than this point at a new Campsite called Tuani after about 5kms. Again this is actually just a Campsite although there were 3 campervans present when we passed. There also appeared to be a very small car park just before the Campsite that could be worth a cheeky wild camp, although overnight parking in the Gorge between 8pm and 7am is actually forbidden.

 

After this point you would have to be supremely confident of your driving skills and have both the nerve and ability to manoeuvre out the way of oncoming vehicles inches away from the extremely dangerous drops. To take anything more than a small van conversion any further would seem foolhardy. After about 9kms, there is a 5 Euros parking fee wherever you leave your vehicle along the final 4kms.

 

The problem as I see it with trying to camp at Tuani or elsewhere, no matter how idyllic, is that the Council run navettes only cost 4 euros aller et retour but only pick you up at the 2.5km Information point. After that, there are no stops until the end at the Bergerie de Grotelle. Therefore, by camping at Tuani you'll still have to hike the 8kms up to the end of the Gorge, where the main attraction of the Lacs de Melu and Capitello are still a further strenuous hour and two hours away respectively. And in the height of summer you'd either have to be extremely fit or just plain daft to attempt that.

 

From Corte we headed back to the exciting North West Coast along the D84 road. This was our first real experience of Corsica's famed narrow roads. The initial section from Castirla was the worst in terms of passing other vehicles but thankfully the few vehicles travelling in the opposite direction were all cars and motorbikes. Lorries and coaches were all spotted using this stretch of road, though. From Calacuccia onwards the road was very much passable by all.

 

1 night wild camping at the top of the Col du Verghio. Excellent views although not as spectacular as the Col de Bavella. 9/10.

 

From here we descended through the beautiful Aitone Forest to Evissa to do the spectacular walk to Ota deep within the confines of the Spelunca Gorge. Fine one way to Ota but extremely strenuous there and back!

 

From Evisa we then encountered why driving on the island can be considered a supreme test of nerve. To say that the drops and views are vertiginous is an understatement at this point. The road is in no way deficient but the yawning pink rock chasm to your right as you descend is simply not be missed.

 

1 night wild camping at the only possible spot immediately before the famous Les Calanches on the Porto to Piana road, the famous D81 road. A stunning spot spoiled by boy racers purposefully tooting their horns during the night to disturb the sleep of the campervanners resting by the side of the road. 8/10.

 

If we thought the Evisa to Porto road was stunning then the Calanches stretch of the D81 was to surpass all expectations. Wow! And wow again! Our only problem? Twas Saturday afternoon at the height of the season. Cue the world and his wife, one articulated lorry and three coaches all trying to travel at the same time along an extremely narrow cliff-hugging stretch of road with overhangs! Patience, nerve and a bloody good sense of humour needed!

 

3 nights at the Plage d'Arone camping and caravanning site 11kms off the D81 through Piana. At last! A well-organised site with space, very good facilities and all next to a very pleasant golden sandy beach and the excellent Cafe de la Plage restaurant. Wild camping was possible just after the campsite and before the restaurant but we decided on some well-earned rest at the Campsite. 9/10.

 

Back northwards along Les Calanches for a second less traumatic look and then out of Porto along the D81 to Galeria.

 

1 night at the 15 Euros Aire (!) laid on/exploited by the local authorities at Galeria. Beautiful but a complete con. 15 Euros for nothing but a dirty, tiered car park with a magnificent view. No electricity, no water, no dumping facilities. Leave by 7am to avoid paying if you can. 7/10.

 

Boat ride to Girolata to see the cliffs of the Scandola Nature Reserve with Colombo Line for 48 Euros. When eating in Girolata, do not eat at the first restaurant by the port where you get off the boat. Appalling, uncooked fish alert!

 

Took the D81, bypassed Calvi and then went through Ile Rousse and St Florent. Ended up spending our last night South of Bastia after much dithering trying to find a suitable wild camping spot or somewhere that took credit cards.

 

1 night wild camping on a car park sandwiched between the beach and the lagoon on the San Damiano lagoon road. Sleep spoilt once again by locals purposefully tooting their horns during the night to disturb the sleep of campervanners. 6/10.

 

Return from Genova via Milano, Como, the Gotthard Tunnel, Basle, Luxembourg and Dunkerque.

 

Would we return?

 

The mixture of mountains and sea will prove hard to ignore for too long but for now we'll maintain our principle that we never go to the same place twice.

 

Next year; Greece.

 

Any help gratefully received!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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It may be a bit late now, but I've only just started reading the forum again after our return from - Corsica (and Sardinia). I did put a lengthy letter on this forum some time ago about our travels. If you do a search on Corsica it should pull it up.

 

Colin Robinson.

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