WHAT   
The northern Black Forest is a region of contrasts. Imagine vast stretches of rolling broad-backed mountains dominated by towering pines and firs, their majestic appearance reminiscent of fairytales by the Brothers Grimm. Yet at odds with this dense forest are bare patches of stubble – the scars left by hurricane Lothar, which in 1999 destroyed as many trees in two hours as the Forestry Commission normally fell over a period of ten years. Despite the devastation, there is a raw beauty to the landscape, with a powerful atmosphere of survival and regeneration.

WHY
The award-winning Naturcamping Langenwald reflects this attitude towards the forest. Located near the end of the Schwarzwald Hochstrasse (Black Forest Highway), it is a small oasis set amidst tall pines by the murmuring Forbach stream. Hospitality and excellent facilities aside, the campsite makes a great base for walking and cycling. There are so many waymarked trails that one can easily get by without a car. Supplies can be bought by taking the 3km bike trip to local Freudenstadt.

HOW
We were allocated a pitch by the stream. “If you don’t like it, come back and we talk!” Herr Eiermann said. The pitch was perfect, with our own private terrace. We spent the first evening exploring the campsite while the children enjoyed the nature trail. We discovered another track that led us around the peaceful Langenweiher, a picturesque lake lined with reeds and surrounded by deciduous trees. Fishing permits are available from reception, and there is a grill hut for an instant dinner. Back on site, Frau Eiermann senior took us on a guided tour of the huge, white building next to the swimming pool.

“It’s our museum,” she told us. “It was a sawmill before the campsite started fifty years ago.” She led us into a dusty room and pointed to the original saw. The other room, resembling a second-hand shop, documented the campsite’s history with an interesting collection of oddities, including the faded photo of the campsite in 1954.

After a refreshingly cool night, we headed ten miles north to the Schliffkopf Nature Reserve and walked the 4km level panoramic trail. This circles the broad ridge across open hillside and wooded areas. Below us the green hills gently rolled towards the plains of the Rhine Valley. Near the horizon we could just about make out Strasbourg and the Vosges Mountains. We returned via shaded forest and past a stunning display of fluttering Red Admirals, Small Tortoiseshells and Peacock butterflies.

Despite temperatures above 25C, the children were still keen on exploring the intriguing Lotharpfad. This unusual discovery trail is a tribute to the forest’s power of re-generation. Across a series of steps, ladders and walkways crafted entirely from fallen trees, the 800 metre circular trail leads walkers over, under and around the debris left behind by the hurricane. Resembling eerie sculptures, dead trees with spindly branches stand tall above the untidy ground which fungi and micro-organisms are busy clearing up. Dried-out tree trunks teeming with insect life now serve as nesting and feeding grounds for birds. The open position has also encouraged the growth of ferns, grasses, low shrubs and previously non-existent broadleaved trees.

For a change of activity we visited nearby Freudenstadt the following day. This is a picturesque spa town, built mostly with local red sandstone. It also boasts Germany’s largest market square, 219 metres by 216 metres. Split into two parts, this is fringed by cafés and medieval-style arcades. The lower section features an amazing display of fifty geyser-like fountains, the water jets changing every twenty seconds.

EAT
The campsite has a basic shop with a mouth-watering selection of freshly baked bread rolls every morning. Its outdoor café serves local food and drink. Freudenstadt has supermarkets, grocers, butchers and an excellent weekly market. Recommended delicacies include: Flammekuchen, the Black Forest version of pizza; Black Forest ham; the local beer, Alpirsbacher; and, of course, Black Forest Gateaux.       

SLEEP

NATURCAMPING LANGENWALD

Familie Eiermann, Strassburger Str 167, 72250 Freudenstadt, Germany

Tel: 0049 7441 2862

Email: info@camping-langenwald.de

Website: www.camping-langenwald.de

Pitches: 90

Open: Easter to 1 November

Cost: 24 Euros per night for one tent, one car, two adults and two children

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